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1994 mazda mx6 200000 miles. New trans 2 weeks ago.All was ...


Sent to Ford Experts March 21, 2006 11:12 p.m.
1994 mazda mx6 200000 miles. New trans 2 weeks ago.All was great untill 3 days ago car would start when cold but stall 20-30 min later. Yesterday started fine and stalled and wouldn't restart. this morning same-- than wouldnt start at all. the destributor is new and I checked it inside and it looked fine. No spark in any plug--- 12 volts in the secondary wire(small conection to the destributor) any sugestion to a man with just a multitester???

Michael Requested
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Status: Closed   Value: $5   
Answer
March 22, 2006 5:09 a.m. (5 hours and 56 minutes later) 		ACCEPTED Check Mark

Hello Customer (name blocked for privacy)!Thanx for the question.The first thing to do is to re-check all the fuses related here (egi 30 amp and engine 10 amp).Next, remove the distributor cap,crank the engine and make sure the rotor spins when the engine is cranking.Next,let me know if the check engine light is lit. If this is OK,follow the test procedures below to check the ignition switch and coil.

Coil:

  1. Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil.

  2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil.

  3. Check the resistance of the ignition coil primary by connecting an ohmmeter to both electrical terminals on the coil.

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Fig. 1: Connect an ohmmeter on both terminals of the ignition coil and measure the primary resistance


  1. Check the resistance of the ignition coil secondary windings by connecting an ohmmeter to coil positive terminal and the coil-to-distributor wire tower terminal.

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Fig. 2: Connect an ohmmeter on to the positive terminal of the ignition coil and the coil wire tower to check the secondary resistance


  1. The resistance for all coils, except on 1.1L engines, should be as follows:

    1. Primary coil winding-0.81-0.99 ohms.

    2. Secondary coil winding-10-15 kilo ohms.

  2. The resistance for the coil on 1.1L engines, should be as follows:

    1. Primary coil winding (turbo)-0.71-0.88 ohms.

    2. Primary coil winding (non-turbo)-0.77-0.94 ohms.

    3. Secondary coil winding-10.2-12.9 kilo-ohms.

  3. If the ignition coil resistance is not within specifications, replace the ignition coil.

  4. If the ignition coil is within the specified limits, connect a voltmeter to the ignition coil wire harness connectors positive terminal and a ground. Turn the ignition on and verify that you have battery voltage at the connector.

  5. If voltage is present, perform a spark test.

  6. If voltage is not present, check the wire harness and fuses for shorts or breaks.

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Fig. 3: Use a voltmeter in the ignition coil wire harness connector positive terminal to check for voltage to the coil


Below is the wire diagram for this start circuit.You will need to check for 12 Volts at the B/W wire at the distributor assy.You should have 12V with key on and while cranking.If it looses the 12V in the crank position the ignition switch is the most likely cause.

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__________________
"It is much wiser and cost efficient to ask a question than to stumble blindly through your auto repairs".Please Click Accept if my answer was helpful.
PictureMichael  -- Auto Technician -- 97% Positive Feedback on 108 Ford Accepts
21 Years Foreign and Domestic driveablility diagnosis and repair.Fuel injection specialist.ASE cert.
Reply to Michael
Sent March 22, 2006 6:35 a.m. (1 hour and 26 minutes later)
Is this schematic the same as 1994?? The coil is nowhere to be found-- is it internal?? ( only 6 wites to cap)
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 22, 2006 4:25 p.m. (9 hours and 49 minutes later) 		REPLIED Check Mark

OK you have the integral coil.Proceed here.

Integral with Distributor Coil

See Figures 3, 4 and 5

  1. Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil.

  2. Disconnect the 2 pin electrical connector from the coil.

  3. Use an ohmmeter and check the resistance of the ignition coil primary winding. Connect the ohmmeter to the two outside terminals on the distributor (A and C). Terminal A is the closest terminal to the 5-pin connector, terminal B is in the middle and terminal C is the last terminal.

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Fig. 4: Connect an ohmmeter on terminals A and C of the ignition coil distributor connector and measure the primary resistance


  1. The resistance should be 0.48-0.85 ohms.

  2. If the resistance is not within specifications, replace the distributor assembly. If the resistance is within specifications, proceed with step 5.

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Fig. 5: Connect an ohmmeter to the positive terminal of the ignition coil connector and the coil tower to check the secondary resistance


  1. Remove the distributor cap and use an ohmmeter to measure the secondary coil resistance. Connect the ohmmeter to terminal C and the coil tower connector.

  2. The resistance should be 11.4-18.4 ohms.

  3. If the ignition coil resistance is not within specifications, replace the distributor.

  4. If the ignition coil is within the specified limits, connect a voltmeter to the ignition coil wire harness connectors positive terminal (terminal C) and a ground. Turn the ignition on and verify that you have battery voltage at the connector.

  5. If voltage is present, perform a spark test.

  6. If voltage is not present, check the wire harness and fuses for shorts or breaks.

And here is the schematic for the 94 which is the same where ignition is concerned.

Images available only to Customers.



__________________
"It is much wiser and cost efficient to ask a question than to stumble blindly through your auto repairs".Please Click Accept if my answer was helpful.

PictureMichael  -- Auto Technician -- 97% Positive Feedback on 108 Ford Accepts
21 Years Foreign and Domestic driveablility diagnosis and repair.Fuel injection specialist.ASE cert.
Reply to Michael
Sent March 22, 2006 9:01 p.m. (4 hours and 36 minutes later)
OK the two conectors are different- one has 3 pins and the other has 6 pins not 2 and 5??

In step 1. How do I disconect the distributor from the coil when they are one in the same-- does it mean the 3 pine conector that is atached to the distributor??
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 22, 2006 9:04 p.m. (3 minutes and 34 seconds later) 		ACCEPTED Check Mark

Do you have the 2.5L? or the 4cyl? Does it look like this?

Images available only to Customers.



__________________
"It is much wiser and cost efficient to ask a question than to stumble blindly through your auto repairs".Please Click Accept if my answer was helpful.

PictureMichael  -- Auto Technician -- 97% Positive Feedback on 108 Ford Accepts
21 Years Foreign and Domestic driveablility diagnosis and repair.Fuel injection specialist.ASE cert.
Reply to Michael
Sent March 22, 2006 9:11 p.m. (6 minutes and 44 seconds later)
2.5 liter v6
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 23, 2006 5:45 a.m. (8 hours and 34 minutes later) 		REPLIED Check Mark

Unplug the 3 pin electrical connector from the distributor.

Use an ohmmeter and check the resistance of the ignition coil primary winding. Connect the ohmmeter to the two outside terminals on the distributor (A and C). Terminal A is the closest terminal to the 6-pin connector, terminal B is in the middle and terminal C is the last terminal.

Connect an ohmmeter on terminals A and C of the ignition coil distributor connector and measure the primary resistance

The resistance should be 0.48-0.85 ohms.

If the resistance is not within specifications, replace the distributor assembly. If the resistance is within specifications, proceed with next step.

Remove the distributor cap and use an ohmmeter to measure the secondary coil resistance. Connect the ohmmeter to terminal C and the coil tower connector.

The resistance should be 11.4-18.4 ohms.

If the ignition coil resistance is not within specifications, replace the distributor.

If the ignition coil is within the specified limits, connect a voltmeter to the ignition coil wire harness connectors positive terminal (terminal C) and a ground. Turn the ignition on and verify that you have battery voltage at the connector.

If voltage is present, perform a spark test again at any spark plug lead.

If voltage is not present, check the wire harness and fuses for shorts or breaks.

9 times out of ten the distributor assy. is the culprit.If this one is new it does not mean it's good.



__________________
"It is much wiser and cost efficient to ask a question than to stumble blindly through your auto repairs".Please Click Accept if my answer was helpful.
PictureMichael  -- Auto Technician -- 97% Positive Feedback on 108 Ford Accepts
21 Years Foreign and Domestic driveablility diagnosis and repair.Fuel injection specialist.ASE cert.
Reply to Michael
Sent March 23, 2006 3:12 p.m. (9 hours and 26 minutes later)
I connected A and C on the destributor and there was a restance of .8 Than i did the internal from c to the coil conection and I got 22.8?? I am asuming the destributor is bad!! Dave
Customer (name blocked for privacy)

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