91 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD front hub problem

If you push the axle in from behind the wheel and use snap ring pliers you will probably be successful.

Grab the axle from behind the wheel (by the boot #13 in lower illustration) And pull it toward you while inserting the snap ring.

What type of hubs do you have AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL?

I have some very good Photos and texts for your front end if you tell me what type the hubs are I will post it for you.

Regards Marc

Hello Marc,

This vehicle ('91 Isuzu Rodeo) has automatic hubs. I will also mention there is excessive side to side movement in drivers side front wheel versus the passenger side front wheel.

Then you do need to adjust the front wheel bearing - or find the cause of the excessive play.

DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY

Except 1996 Models

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17

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Fig. 1: Exploded view of the hubs on all 4WD models equipped with automatic locking hubs

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Fig. 2: The inner cam should be installed with the teeth facing outward and with the groove aligned with hub

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Fig. 3: If the inner cam is difficult to install, use the special tool (J-38194 or equivalent) and a hammer to tap it into position

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Fig. 4: During shim selection, install special tool J-36836 (or equivalent) onto the axle shaft with tool J-36835-2 until it comes into contact with the lockwasher

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Fig. 5: Using feeler gauges, measure the clearance (t) between the tool and the snapring groove of the axle shaft

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Fig. 6: If clearance (t) is larger than the snapring groove, shims must be installed so clearance (t) is 0.0000-0.0039 in. (0.0-0.1mm)

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Fig. 7: After removing the attaching bolts, lift the housing assembly from the hub

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Fig. 8: Using snapring pliers, remove the snapring ...

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Fig. 9: ... then the shims from the end of the axle shaft

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Fig. 10: Often a special grasping tool comes in handy for removing the shims

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Fig. 11: After removing all shims, slide the drive clutch assembly ...

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Fig. 12: ... and the inner cam off the end of the axle shaft

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Fig. 13: To remove the hub nut, first remove the retaining screws ...

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Fig. 14: ... and the lockwasher from the hub unit, then ...

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Fig. 15: ... remove the hub nut-a special hub nut wrench is needed for this

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Fig. 16: The outer bearing can now be removed from the hub/rotor assembly-1991 Trooper shown

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Fig. 17: It is a good idea to use a elastic cord to hold the brake caliper

1. Move the transfer case shift lever into 2H and move the vehicle forward and rearward about 3 ft. to be sure the transfer case is in Neutral.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

3. Remove the front wheel(s).

4. Remove the locking hub cap-to-housing bolts and the cap.

5. Remove the brake caliper-to-steering knuckle bolts and support the caliper on a wire; do not allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose. Do not disconnect the brake hose.

6. Remove the brake caliper support bracket from the steering knuckle.

7. Using snapring pliers, remove the snapring and shims.

8. Remove the drive clutch assembly, the inner cam and lockwasher.

9. Using a hub nut wrench, loosen the hub nut.

10. Pull the hub from the spindle.

11. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.

12. Using a prytool, pry the inner bearing lip seal out of the inboard side of the hub, then remove the inner bearing assembly with your fingers.

13. Wash all parts in a cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. Do NOT allow the bearings to spin while drying them with the compressed air.

Always replace the bearing and race as a matched set, if replacement bearings are needed.

14. Check the bearings for pitting or scoring. Also check for smooth rotation and lack of noise as follows:

    1. Once the bearings and bearing races, located in the hub assembly, have been cleaned of all old grease and build up, oil the bearings with regular, clean engine oil.

    2. Position each bearing, 1 at a time, in its respective bearing race. Provide slight inward pressure and turn the bearings.

    3. While pressing in and rotating the bearings, note how they turn in the bearing races. The bearings should turn smoothly and evenly.

    4. If the bearings turn irregularly or make noises while rotating, they must be replaced with new ones. Any time the bearings are replaced, the bearing races should also be replaced.

Special installation tools are necessary to assemble new bearing races into the hub assembly.

15. If necessary, remove the bearing races as follows:

    1. Place the hub assembly on a piece of clean cardboard with the outboard side facing down.

    2. Using a long, brass drift pin or punch, tap the outer bearing race out of the hub assembly. It will be necessary to work the punch around the bearing in a circular motion, otherwise the bearing race can become excessive cocked in the hub bore; this makes removal almost impossible. If this happens, simply tap on the opposite side of the bearing race until it has leveled out in the bore.

    3. After the outer bearing race is removed, flip the hub over and perform the same with the inner bearing race.

16. If removing the disc from the hub, scribe matchmarks, remove the disc-to-hub bolts and separate the disc from the hub.

To install:

17. Clean the flange surface of the hub, thread holes, the surface of the lockwasher and the splines of the axle shaft.

18. If the rotor was removed from the hub unit, position the rotor on the hub so the matchmarks align. Install the hub-to-rotor bolts and tighten in a crisscross fashion to 68-83 ft. lbs. (92-113 Nm).

19. If new wheel bearings are to be installed, and the old bearing races were removed, install the new inner and outer bearing races as follows:

    1. Position the hub unit so the outer side faces down on a clean work surface (cardboard or wood surface to prevent damage to the hub case). Position the new inner bearing race in the hub bore and drive it in place with the Bearing Race Installer Tool J-36829 and Installer Tool Grip J-8092, or their equivalents. Tap the race into the hub housing until it is seated completely in the bore.

    2. Turn the hub unit over so the inner side faces down and position the new outer bearing race in the hub bore. Drive it into the hub housing with Bearing Race Installer Tool J-29015 and Tool Grip J-8092, or their equivalents, as with the inner bearing race.

20. Pack the bearings with wheel bearing grease, then install the inner bearing and a new grease seal in the hub. Use the Oil Seal Installer Tool J-36830 and Grip J-8092, or their equivalents.

21. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle. Place 1 to 1¹/₂ oz. of bearing grease in the hub and install the outer bearing and hub nut on the spindle.

22. When installing the hub nut, perform the following procedures:

    1. Install the nut on the front spindle threads by hand. Make sure the side of the hub nut with chamfers in the machine screw holes faces outward; the machine screws must sit flush and if the hub nut is installed wrong, they cannot do so.

    2. Tighten the hub nut to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm), then completely loosen the nut; this seats the bearings on the spindle.

    3. Use a spring gauge connected at 90 degrees to the uppermost wheel stud to measure preload.

    4. Tighten the hub nut until the spring gauge measures a bearing preload of 4.4-5.5 lbs. (2.0-2.5 kg) for a new bearing and a new oil seal, or 2.6-4.0 lbs. (1.2-1.8 kg) for a used bearing and a new oil seal.

23. Install the lockwasher with the larger diameter of the tapered bore to the outer side of the vehicle. If the bolt holes in the lock plate do not align with the corresponding holes in the nut, reverse the lock plate. If the bolt holes are still out of alignment, turn in the nut just enough to obtain alignment and install the lock screw tightly, so its head is lower than the surface of the washer.

24. Install the inner cam by aligning the keyway of the inner cam with the groove of the knuckle. If the cam is difficult to install, use tool No. J-38194 or equivalent and a plastic hammer to lightly tap the inner cam into place.

25. Select the proper shim:

    1. Lower the vehicle and support the lower control arm with a block of wood and a floor jack to place the axle in the normal horizontal position.

    2. Install the special adjusting tools (J-36836 and J-36835-2, or equivalents) onto the hub until it comes in contact with the lockwasher.

    3. Pull the axle out as far as possible and using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance t between the hub and the snapring groove on the axle shaft.

    4. If the clearance is larger than the snapring groove, selected shims must be installed so clearance t is 0.000-0.039 in. (0.0-0.1mm). Shims come in thicknesses of 0.0079 in. (0.2mm), 0.0118 in. (0.3mm), 0.0197 in. (0.5mm), and 0.0393 in. (1.0mm).

    5. Remove the adjusting tools.

26. Install the drive clutch assembly.

27. Install the shims selected above by hand on the axle and use the following steps to install a new snapring.

    1. Install special tool J-36835-2 or equivalent onto the axle.

    2. Install the snapring on the tool.

    3. Install tool driver J-36835-1 or equivalent.

    4. Pull out the axle shaft by pulling tool J-36835-2 or equivalent. Install the snapring to the axle by pushing on tool J-36835-1.

    5. Remove tool driver J-36835-2 or equivalent from the axle and check the fit of the snapring.

28. Install the housing assembly and cap. Tighten the locking hub cap bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm).

29. Install the front wheels.

30. Lower the vehicle to the floor.

31. Images available only to Customers.
    
    

    
    

Edited by enginboy on July 3 2006 at 10:52am