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I having been working on a 65 GTO. I put on new ...

Sent to Car Experts October 31 04:36 PM

I having been working on a 65 GTO. I put on new alternator,regulator,battery,car ran for a few minutes then shut off and since then I have no juice.No lights,radio,interior lights,no ignition. I have 12 volts at battery,and 12 volts from neg.post to Bat.terminal on alternator. I noticed the clock on radio works,but if you turn on ignition switch or light switch,or dome light the clock on radio goes off, turn everything off and clock appears on radio.

 

Optional Information:
1965 Pontiac coupe 389 tri-pwr

Already Tried:
Checking battery voltage,

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Status:  Closed   Value: $9
Info Request
October 31 4:43 PM (6 minutes and 41 seconds later)
         

Hello

Nice car, had one myself...

This sure sounds like a voltage supply loss.

Get me a voltage reading from the battery cables at the battery when the key is in the "start" position, Make sure the voltmeter leads DONT touch the battery POSTS,,,,ONLY the cable ENDS....i want to see what the volts are when trying to start it.

Let me know when you can.



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Virtual Wrench -- ASE Master Tech . -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1978 Car Accepts
A.S.E. 30 years/Master Tech. Foreign and Domestic
Reply
October 31 4:51 PM (7 minutes and 51 seconds later)
         
I turned ignition switch on and check voltage at battery cables,didn't touch post. Voltage was 12.6
Ignition doesn't attempt to start when turned on. Just nothing.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Info Request
October 31 4:52 PM (1 minute and 42 seconds later)
         
REPLIED to Info RequestCheck Mark

You checked it with the key all the way over to the "start" position right, not just to the "on" position?



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Virtual Wrench -- ASE Master Tech . -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1978 Car Accepts
A.S.E. 30 years/Master Tech. Foreign and Domestic
Reply
October 31 4:56 PM (3 minutes and 31 seconds later)
         
Reply to Virtual Wrench's Post: Yes doubled checked and had girl friend hold key in starting position, checked voltage and it was 12.6 at battery cables.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Info Request
October 31 4:59 PM (2 minutes and 52 seconds later)
         
REPLIED to Info RequestCheck Mark

Thanks man,

It may be a fusable link wire to the fuse box thats at fault here.

First check the fuse box with your meter with the key off and observe how many fuses have power to them,,,,then turn the key on, and recheck power at all the fuses and tell me if more have power with the key on, than they did with it off.

 



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Virtual Wrench -- ASE Master Tech . -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1978 Car Accepts
A.S.E. 30 years/Master Tech. Foreign and Domestic
Reply
October 31 5:09 PM (10 minutes and 17 seconds later)
         
Reply to Virtual Wrench's Post: I guess I am checking fusebox right. I put neg.probe to ground,emergeny brake housing and positive to fuses.and extra post. I got no reading with switch off or on.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Info Request
October 31 5:15 PM (5 minutes and 47 seconds later)
         
REPLIED to Info RequestCheck Mark

Ah Ha!

Providing you have a good ground (sure sounds like it) we have a power loss to the fuse box...

We need to check the fusable link to the fuse box.....look down on the starter, where the battery cable is attached to the solenoid,,,,on the same post on the solenoid, there should be a couple of other wires attached.....they are fuse link wires,,,have you ever heard of a fusable link wire?



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Virtual Wrench -- ASE Master Tech . -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1978 Car Accepts
A.S.E. 30 years/Master Tech. Foreign and Domestic
Reply
October 31 5:23 PM (8 minutes and 35 seconds later)
         
Reply to Virtual Wrench's Post: I have heard of fuse links,not really sure of their workings, but the big problem I cam barely see the post were positive cable goes to and I see a yellow and red wire coming up through heat shield. I do not have very much access to top of starter because of exhaust manifold is over starter. I cannot acces this area unless I get car up. But I can see cable and yellow and red wire that come up through heat tube. Yellow wire has voltage and split connector between starter and firewall, red wire doesn't appear to have voltage. Position of starter doesn't allow room to get into to work without moving something.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
October 31 5:32 PM (8 minutes and 12 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark

That freakin starter position sucks!!! Huh?

I'm sure you will find that the wire has burnt through back there in that deep dark HOT area......

Here is some info about the fuse links......i'll go dust off some oll books and dig ya up a wiring diagram,,,,,be beack in a bit,,,,in the mean time, get ready to put her up on jack stands and pull the starter,,,or at least be able to get to those wires....

A fusible link is a protective device used in an electrical circuit and acts very much like a standard fuse. The major difference lies in that fusible links are larger and capable of conducting higher amperages than most fuses. When the current increases beyond the rated amperage for a given link, the fusible metal of the wire link will melt, thus breaking the electrical circuit and preventing further damage to any other components or wiring. Whenever a fusible link is melted because of a short circuit, correct the cause before installing a new one. Most models have four fusible links.

 

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, followed by the positive cables. If the link is connected to the junction block or starter solenoid, disconnect it there as well.

  2. Cut the wiring harness right behind the link connector(s) and remove.

  3. Strip the insulation off the harness wire back 1/2 in (12.7mm).

  4. Position the clip around the new link and wiring harness or new connector and crimp it securely. Then, solder the connection, using rosin core solder and sufficient heat to guarantee a good connection. Repeat for the remaining connection.

  5. Tape all exposed wiring with electrical tape. Where necessary, connect the link to the junction block or started solenoid. Reconnect the positive, followed by the negative battery cables.

Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 1: New fusible links are spliced to the old wire

 

Images available only to Customers.

 

 



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Virtual Wrench -- ASE Master Tech . -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1978 Car Accepts
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Reply
October 31 5:40 PM (8 minutes and 50 seconds later)
         
Reply to Virtual Wrench's Post: Is it possible that there would be no fusible wires, if something was rewired and no fuses used.Say wire run from starter to wire harness connected with connectors. Spliced project. I do not know what was done. but I do see connectors. Would burnt through wire be the same as fusible link. Wire that I can see are just two wire running up through tube. no insulation on them. I was wondering problem if starter was rewire using electrical wiring.?
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
October 31 5:49 PM (9 minutes later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark

Yes many times the fuse wire(the wire inside the insulation is actually the fuse) are replaced with regular wire and splices,,,i seen this alot on the older GM's,,,this isnt only for thr GTO, they used this circutry in ALL GM s back then.

You will find the fault using an oohm meter on the wires and find the break. Its tough bro, 'cause you aint got alot of room to work, but if you just pull the starter, have better access to the wires, you can find the break.

Here is the wiring diagram, but you will probably have the best luck with an ohm meter.]

Click here

I'm sure you will find it, but if you need more help, you can always post back to this question later, even after you accept, and it wont cost any more...:-)

 

Best of luck my friend!!



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Virtual Wrench -- ASE Master Tech . -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1978 Car Accepts
A.S.E. 30 years/Master Tech. Foreign and Domestic
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