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1993 GM Lumina APV anti-lock problems
Sent to Car Experts August 28 08:52 AM

I have a 1993 chevy lumina apv van,the anti-lock light has been coming on and off for about a month,my mechanic scanned it and had 3 codes,the last one being a left rear sensor,one low voltage,can't remember the third one.Now,as of yeasterday when it rained a lot,the anti-lock as well as the regular barke light stay on steady and constantly,read the service manual and it says i could have wiring short,the winter salt corrode off the wiring on my load level pump,and i just had new shocks and springs mounted on rear since spring broke and air shocks were shot.I am beginning to think I have shorts?and before I start buying left rear hubs at $170,and command module,at $270,was looking for a professional to tell me thier opinion,my mechanic is a moonlighter,and I don't want to override his opinion,but don't want this to turn into a can of worms and a parts buying spree.Please give a highly qualified answer,hopefully by a professional GM mechanic who deals with it on a regular basis,the van has 180,000 miles on it,just trying to get 2 more years till daughter finishes college.when car starts,it is clear,when put in gear and brake pressure applied,feel little setting in peddle,can hear system setting,then both lights come on steady.

Edited by Customer (name blocked for privacy) on August 28 2006 at 2:35 PM

 

Optional Information:
1993 Chevrolet Lumina apv 3.8

Already Tried:
Snap- on scan analysis

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
August 28 7:26 PM (10 hours and 33 minutes and 38 seconds later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark
Well if the lights are coming on all the time after just started you have an open circuit.If you have an ohm meter you can ohm the sensor and the wiring.Unplug the sensor and take an ohm reading if you get infinity the sensor(hub bearing)is bad.You could also jack up that wheel and take an a/c voltage reading of the sensor by doing the same type test but set on a/c volts instead of ohms.You need to spin the wheel about 1 revolution per second and it should read 300 millvolts or higher.You will still need to check the wiring closely at the mileage you have you may need both.If the hub checks good you know it's in the wires and is usually found where it flexes the most on bumps.


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