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Info Request
October 03, 2006 12:27 p.m. (2 minutes and 42 seconds later)
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REPLIED to Info Request 
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Hi do you know which fuse blows? (location and amprage) -Rip
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Reply to RIP
Sent October 03, 2006 12:28 p.m. (1 minute and 0 seconds later)
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my owners guide in the glove compartment
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Richard Schulman
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Info Request
October 03, 2006 12:39 p.m. (10 minutes and 19 seconds later)
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REPLIED to Info Request
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But do you know which accessory is inoperative or what color the fuse is, or where it's located (in the vehicle, or under the hood)? -Rip
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Reply to RIP
Sent October 03, 2006 12:41 p.m. (2 minutes and 41 seconds later)
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its located under the steering wheel, its 10amps
and the instuments..speedometer,gas gauge... dont work and the accelerater( gas pedal wont work)
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Richard Schulman
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Answer
October 03, 2006 12:49 p.m. (7 minutes and 32 seconds later)
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REPLIED
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On the diagram below, is it fuse #19? -Rip Images available only to Customers.
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Please click on "ACCEPT" if I was helpful-or if you still need assistance just reply, before leaving any feedback thanks 
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Reply to RIP
Sent October 03, 2006 12:54 p.m. (5 minutes and 33 seconds later)
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yes
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Richard Schulman
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Answer
October 03, 2006 1:12 p.m. (17 minutes and 35 seconds later)
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REPLIED
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Alright, this fuse powers: Auxilary PCM (Powertrain Control Module), Clutch Pedal Position Switch (If equipped), Idle Validation Switch, Overhead Trip Computer Module, Generic Electric Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Power Take Off, and part of the Instrument Cluster. If any of these components are internally shorted, or the wiring to them - it will blow this fuse. To identify which one it is, we have to disconnect each component individualy, install a new fuse, and see if it no longer blows. So you will go thru a minimum of 8 fuses, during testing. Before we begin, do you know if the problem might have begun after one of the above components recently stopped working, or repair work was done in the general area? If so we would start looking for our fault there. Let me know if you have suffuicient fuses, and i'll tell you where to begine disconnecting. Also, is this a manual transmission or automatic? -Rip __________________ Please click on "ACCEPT" if I was helpful-or if you still need assistance just reply, before leaving any feedback thanks
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Reply to RIP
Sent October 03, 2006 1:22 p.m. (9 minutes and 50 seconds later)
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cool,its a automatic. I would have just taken it to ford but im using every dime I have to get a friend to put a new transmission in. I am getting it from ford for 2000 dollars its warranted for 3 years or 75000 miles.anyway My truck is in midtown in a shopping center. this problem happened this morning. and if I get it towed I cant afford the transmission. so my friend is going to tow it this evening to his garage. so I am not at my truck to trouble shoot it. will you help me this evening or tomorrow?
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Richard Schulman
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Answer
October 03, 2006 1:26 p.m. (3 minutes and 42 seconds later)
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REPLIED
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No problem, since it's automatic we can elliminate the Clutch Switch. Let me know when your ready, and i'll help. I work intermittently thru the night, so if I don't respond as quickly, just give me some time. Thanks, -Rip __________________ Please click on "ACCEPT" if I was helpful-or if you still need assistance just reply, before leaving any feedback thanks
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Reply to RIP
Sent October 03, 2006 1:30 p.m. (4 minutes and 24 seconds later)
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thanks, if you could tell me how to dissconnect everything not important to the driving of the truck Maybe I can get the accelerater to work and drive it home now. The accelerater being dead is the only reason its not where i am
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Richard Schulman
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Answer
October 03, 2006 1:44 p.m. (13 minutes and 34 seconds later)
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REPLIED
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The problem is that the Accelerator Pedal is part of the circuit, and actually may be the cause of the problem. These accelerator pedals are electronic and have a tendency to fail. Try disconnecting the connectors to the pedal, under the dash and install a new fuse in there, if the fuse no longer blows, we know the pedal assembly will need to be replaced. The switch inside the pedal is called the Idle Validation Switch. If it is the PCM, the truck still will not be drivable. The only thing you actually can disconnect out there would probably be the Overhead Trip Computer, but this is a rare failure. The rest of the components (Cluster, GEM, Overdrive Cancel Switch) all take time to tear the dash apart to access the connectors, I don't think it's something you'll want to do in the parking lot. You might be able to disconnect the GEM, below is a pic. -Rip Images available only to Customers.
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Please click on "ACCEPT" if I was helpful-or if you still need assistance just reply, before leaving any feedback thanks
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Reply to RIP
Sent October 03, 2006 2:03 p.m. (19 minutes and 13 seconds later)
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I,ll just wait this evening and of course when we trouble shoot I,ll be accepting... talk to you
tonight
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Richard Schulman
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Answer
October 03, 2006 2:11 p.m. (8 minutes and 30 seconds later)
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