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Hello! I have just purchased a 1995 Aurora and noticed ...
Sent to Car Experts July 15 07:48 PM

Hello! I have just purchased a 1995 Aurora and noticed when I turn the vehicle off the Idle Speed Control Motor keeps clicking. When I removed the old one, there was play in the screw that sticks out of it, I could actually push it in and out, like it was spring loaded. I then bought a new one and replaced it, inserting the screw the same length as the old one, and now when I start the vehicle the RPM's go way up (I turned off right away!) What did I do wrong, or what else do I need to do? Could the new part be faulty? It has no play in the screw when I screw it in like the old one did?    I also noticed when I was putting on the new part, it pushed on the striker plate and has the air intake opened up a bit (or maybe it is called the butterfly intake? I just do not know). Please help me..... I need my vehicle!!!!!

thecookiemaker

 

Optional Information:
1995 Oldsmobile aurora 4.0 8 cylinder

Already Tried:
adjusting the screw a bit.

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
July 15 10:10 PM (2 hours and 21 minutes and 59 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
Hi thanks for your question.

Does the plunger retract when you turn the key off? If it doesn't then possibly it's a defective part.

The computer learns operational patterns, such as how far to extend the plunger at start up. Since the plunger was not operating, it may have learned to fully extend the plunger in an attempt to raise the idle speed. Now it needs to relearn the pattern. It may relearn with repeated start-ups. You can also disconnect the battery cables, and then turn the lights on for 20 minutes. This will clear the memory, and the operational patterns will start at the center of their parameters. It will also cause the computer to have to relearn all the operational patterns. You will also need to reset all memories(clock, radio, etc.)


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Reply
July 16 11:45 AM (13 hours and 34 minutes and 44 seconds later)
         
Reply to RonRepair's Post: First, when I get the new part, should the plunger be retracted all the way? when I look at the old one, it looks like the plunger is sticking out 3/4 inch, then of course the screw is sticking out of the plunger itself. The new one does not have the plunger sticking out at all. I also found that when removing the screw out of the old plunger, it is much shorter then the new screw? I am thinking that i should use the old screw in the new part , but should I turn it down to match how far it was in the old part, or how do I know how far to adjust it in? If you say finger tight it does not go very far down at all! I had to turn the old one out with a pair of pliers!    Also, what would happen if I did not install this motor at all, would it be driveable to get it to a
$$$ mechanic?This seemed so simple at first, what a mess I have gotten myself into!

one more thing, yesterday I did try to clear the computer by disconnecting the negative battery post, would this do it, or do you have to turn on the light switch and remove both positive and negative?

Cheryl

Edited by Customer (name blocked for privacy) on July 16 2006 at 12:34 PM
Answer
July 16 1:07 PM (1 hour and 22 minutes and 40 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
You install the screw into the new part so that it so that it extends the same amount as in the old part (same amount of threads showing). You say you are finger tightening it. It should require a wrench or pliers to install it. With it fully retracted, it should not hold the throttle open.

Just remove it to see if it will idle without the device. You may have to let it warm up first (depress the gas pedal). You could always reinstall the old one (try to get the screw in the same distance), and get it to the shop.

Yes you need to disconnect both pos. and Neg., then turn on the lights. They wont turn on, but it drains power stored in the capacitors.


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Reply
July 16 1:48 PM (40 minutes and 46 seconds later)
         
Reply to RonRepair's Post: HELLO! I am concerned because the old screw is shorter than the new screw! Should I use the old one or the new one. Also, the old part seems to have the plunger with the screw in it extended, is this normal, because the new one does not seem to be this way.

Cheryl
Answer
July 16 2:04 PM (15 minutes and 59 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
Yes, the screw will have some of the threads exposed. You need to install the new screw, so the same amount of threads are exposed.


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July 16 2:17 PM (13 minutes and 9 seconds later)
         
Reply to RonRepair's Post: OK, my concern is this: the old screw is 7/8 inch long, has threads all the way to the head on it. The New screw is 1 1/4 inches long, has threads for 3/4 of an inch, then is smooth for 1/2 inch to the head of the screw. If I insert the new screw to show the same amount of threads as the old screw, there will also be the 1/4 inch of smooth surface to the head of the screw. will this not be to much? I know I am being a pest but something just does not seem right here! Also, if this does not work, can I safely drive the car without the part to get it to a mechanic?

Cheryl
Answer
July 16 2:34 PM (16 minutes and 34 seconds later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark
Okay, I see the dilemma. The idea is to get the distance from the end of the plunger to the contact end of the screw (where it touches the striker), to be the same distance on the new part, as it was on the old part. If you have to use the old screw to do this, then do so.

If the car will idle, it would be safe to drive. Just make sure the electrical connector doesn't get tangled in the throttle linkage.


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Reply
July 16 4:36 PM (2 hours and 2 minutes and 22 seconds later)
         
Reply to RonRepair's Post: Hello again,

I did what you said, using the old screw and put the motor back in, (I had already disconected the battery and turned the lights on). It is now idling at about 800, but when I turn the key it starts clicking, the plunger is going in and out and the clicking appears to be the butterfly intake....it does this a few times, then when I turn the key off, it does it for about a minute (the plunging of the motor and the clicking of the butterfly intake. When it stops, it is not fully retracted like it was when I installed it. Any Ideas?

thecookiemaker
Answer
July 16 7:26 PM (2 hours and 49 minutes and 38 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
For starters, the computer now has to relearn. It's now operating off default data. It sounds like the car is drivable, and you should drive it to allow it to relearn. You may notice differences in the way it runs while it relearns.

If there is still a problem after you drive the car a few times then let me know. It is probable that it will need to be scanned, if there is a problem. I'm guessing you don't have a scanner, so a mechanic will have to check it, if it's necessary. I would need the data a scanner provides to diagnose a problem.


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July 16 9:43 PM (2 hours and 16 minutes and 44 seconds later)
         
Reply to RonRepair's Post: thank you for your help, I will take it by and have it scanned, I think Advance will scan them for you..... the reason I initially replaced the idle speed motor was because it was doing the clicking thing I described earlier, and I was told by the dealer that if it was not replaced, the car could quit running at any time. Is this true, or is it possible that that this motor should keep running when the car is turned off and the butterfly keep clicking?

Thanks
Customer (name blocked for privacy)

Edited by Customer (name blocked for privacy) on July 16 2006 at 9:47 PM
Answer
July 16 10:00 PM (17 minutes and 26 seconds later)
         
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