I have replaced the engine in a 1994 V-6 Camry 4 door sedan .

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I have replaced the engine in a 1994 V-6 Camry 4 door sedan . The car starts and runs perfect but runs for only 15 minutes. It cuts out like someone turns off the key. The engine will crank but there will be no spark at the plugs at that time. 15 minutes later the car starts again and runs for 15 minutes more. The check engine light is on but I have been unable to read the codes. I took it to a toyota dealer. They said the car was overheating and that I put the wrong engine in the car. This really baffled me. I never did get a computer print out of the problem. The engine was from a 1994 camry stationwagon, same engine ID, looked identical, and all the wires matched up fine. Since then, I removed the thermostat, and watched the temperature for 15 minutes. It climb to 165 degrees, at which time the engine cut out again. What is resetting? Could it be as simple as a week fuse or relay? The old engine had blown oil all through the intake and exhaust. Could it be a sensor problem?

Optional Information:
1994 Toyota Camry MZ-FE

Already Tried:
Ruled out over heating. Cant retreive codes. Replaced temperature sensors./p>

Customer (name blocked for privacy)

Status: Closed Value: $25

You need to retrieve the codes to see where to start. Check the mass airflow sensor. Is it full of oil? I believe this is where the fuel pump gets it's power. I'll check my information for the color wires you need to check. It will be a little while before I can get to it. Try yo find out what the codes are.

Reply to 32dmadden's Post: For some reason I can't get the self diagnostic to work. The check engine light is on, the ignition is on but the car is not running, the voltage is good, and I am connecting ports TEI and EI. I tried both the location under the dash and at the strut tower with no success. I will take the car back to the toyota dealer on friday to try and get the read out.

The engine code should be 1MZ-FE. This is on the right side of the engine. Are you sure your on the right pins for TE1 & E1. On the strut tower you have a rectangle connector. At one end there is a group of 9 pins. Looks like a tick tack toe set up. TE1 is the one in the middle. E1 is lower right on same side as snap release. Make sure you have a good connection when useing the jumper. When it won't start check the manifold vaccum. also check when running. Snap throttle, gauge should go to 0 and then start rising. If it stays at 0 or very low check exhaust for restriction. After it dies check temp. on exhaust from manifold to exhaust tip. If it's very hot up front & temp. drops off alot after cat or muffler that's where the restricktion is. I was wrong about where the fuel pump gets power it EFI main relay then to fuel pump relay. When it won't start does it have fuel pressure? Can you hear the pump running? Auto Zone & alot of other parts stores will rent tools, ie pressure gauge. .Well there's a few things to check before Friday. I have at least 50 pages of more test. I know you can find the problem with me guiding you through it. hope this helps. please accept my answer if your satisfied. Thanks 32dmadden

Reply to 32dmadden's Post: I ruled out the possibility of the exhaust being plugged. I disconnect the exhaust right before it enters the catalitic converter. The engine sounds very smooth. At 15 minutes, it just off again without noticing any changes in sound or performance. I checked the MAS while is was running. Voltage was at 0.7 and would rise to 1.7 when I throttled up. After the car stalled, I still had 0.7 volts at the MAS. I noticed that the EFI relay seems to be warm to the touch, but by no means hot. There is fuel pressure after the car shuts off, although I can never hear the pump running. Is the pump in the tank?

I am sure that I am testing the right pins to read the codes.

Is there a differance between engines before 6/94 and after 6/94? Is there a difference between domestic and Japanese cars? I am going down to the dealer today to question the Dealer Mechanic that told be I put the wrong engine in the car. I would like to be able to sound educated when I do. My car was built 6/94 and is american made. The car the engine was taken out of was the same year, but I did not not look to see if it was american built and what month it was built.

I couldn't find any difference Before and after 6/94 in my info. The parts man at the dealership probably has better info on that then I do. We need those codes. Give me an E-MAIL address and I'll send you the diagram for the diagnostic connector. Hope this gets you going in the right direction. Please accept my answer if your satisfied. Thanks 32dmadden

Reply to 32dmadden's Post: My Email address is Customer (name blocked for privacy)@yahoo.com

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V-6 with no spark after 15 minutes

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