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CHEVY SBC 350 WIREING-LOOSING AMPS WHEN TURNED OFF

Sent to Car Experts June 11 2006 at 9:12 PM
   

I have a 1970 fj40 landcrusier with a 1989 sbc 350 carb motor/elec ign.. The problum is my battarie is loosing about 1 volt every 3 hrs when the ign. is turned off and there is no accs running. Any idea on what might be draing the batt.?

thanks

 

Optional Information:
Pre-1981 Toyota FJ40 SBC 350

Already Tried:
nothing
/p>

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
June 11 2006 at 11:42 PM (9 minutes and 50 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark

Hello Customer (name blocked for privacy).What you describe is termed "Parasitic drain".


PARASITIC CURRENT DRAIN
DRAINS
The desired test instrument is a Digital Ammeter
capable of reading as low as one milliamp
and up to 20 amps. Meters of a lower amp range
can be used by forming a shunt using two
jumper wires connected by alligator clips. Reason:
the wake-up call necessary to charge the
capacitors in a full option state-of-the-art automotive
electrical system can require as much as
6 amps for one minute. Many digital meters are
fused at 2 amps and therefore have withdrawal
symptoms when subjected to this much current.
The shunt allows the system to properly power
up the capacitors while protecting the meter
from excessive current loads. Once the capacitors
are charged, disconnect the shunt and read
the ammeter for actual drain.

HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?
Some tech manuals which include a Battery
Testing Section reflect acceptable current drains.
Listed is a typical example of a parasitic drain
(load) for a General Motors Vehicle.
EXAMPLES OF PARASITIC LOADS
Device---Milliamp Draw
Voltage Regulator 1 - 2
Digital Clock 3 - 4.5
Quartz Clock 7
ECM 6.5 - 8
ETR Radio & Clock 7
Load Leveling 4
Memory Seat 3
Twilight Sentinel 3

CONVENTIONAL TESTING METHODS
MAY BE ILLUSIVE
Conventional electrical drain test procedures
may not identify the cause of the condition.
Vehicles equipped with Electronic Control
Modules can exhibit a failure mode within the
ECM which can result in a high parasitic current
drain on the battery. Conventional testing methods
may not detect the cause. The reason for that is, when the battery cable is disconnected, the solid state
circuit which caused the excessive drain may
not re-occur once the electrical circuit continuity
is restored. Cycling the ignition switch to the
run position, then back to the off position may
cause the electrical drain to re-occur. Caution:
the ignition switch should not be turned to the
accessory, run, or start position with the ammeter
installed in series with the battery terminal
as damage to the meter may result. Only turn the switch to the run position after first installing a shunt across the ammeter.

A full option vehicle can experience a
parasitic load of 25-35 milliamps. Remember, a
milliamp is one thousandth of an amp. Twenty-
five thousandths of an amp is not much current.
Should you determine the current draw exceeds
the allowable limit as specified by the manufacturer,
it will be necessary to identify the circuit
which is creating the draw. It’s best to use the
process of elimination. Look for the obvious.
Check the lamp circuits (courtesy, glove box,
trunk lamp, etc.) for bulbs illuminated when
they shouldn’t be. For example, a glove box or
trunk lamp may remain illuminated when the lid
or door is closed. To check the trunk lamp it will
be necessary to get in there with it. Caution:
make sure you have a helper, and most importantly,
make sure he is your friend,hahaha
If the visual inspection fails to identify the drain,
pull fuses, one at a time, to find the source.
Remember, if the fuse box is in the glove box,
the bulb will be illuminated when the door is
open. Either record its draw or disconnect the
bulb. Once you identify the circuit creating the
draw, refer to the service manual or a wiring
diagram to determine what devices are on that
circuit. Disconnecting these devices one at a
time should reveal the problem circuit
. If pulling
fuses fails to identify the drain, it may be
necessary to disconnect relays one at a time. It
is simply a process of elimination, isolating
circuits to identify the problem circuit. Remember,
anything operated by a switch is a likely
candidate in causing current drain.

1. Make certain the ignition switch is in the Lock position and all electrical accessories are off and
doors closed. If equipped with a hood lamp, remove the bulb or disconnect its electrical connector.
2. Fabricate two 12 gauge jumper wires equipped with alligator clips on each end. Install the jumper
wires in series with the negative battery post and cable.
Next, attach the recommended ammeter test leads in parallel with the jumper wires.
3. Rotate the ignition switch to the Run position. Caution: Do not rotate the ignition switch to the Start
position as the test leads and ammeter will get very hot, and damage to the vehicle and wiring
harness may result.
4. Rotate the ignition switch back to the Lock position. Make certain that electrical continuity between
the negative battery post and cable is not interrupted. Allow a one minute wait after placing the
switch in the Lock position. The wait allows the capacitors time to charge (failure to do so may result
in misdiagnosis).
5. Disconnect the alligator clips.
The ammeter is now in series with the battery post and cable. Read the amp draw on the ammeter and follow the recommended test procedure above if the drain exceeds the allowable parasitic load.


CHECKING ELECTRICAL DRAINS
ON THE LINE


DELCO’S POSITION
In 1970, Delco produced a service
bulletin which addressed misdiagnosing
by using a voltmeter to test
for electrical drains. With a 63 ampere-
hour battery: (1) use a typical
1000 ohms-per-volt voltmeter (2) read
the 20 volt scale on the voltmeter.
If the battery open circuit voltage
is 12.6 volts, a reading of 6.3 volts on
a voltmeter connected in series indicates
current leakage that would require
12 years for the battery to become discharged! Even a
reading of 12 volts would require over 200 days for the battery
to become discharged!
It’s perfectly normal for a voltmeter connected in series to
read over 6 volts. In fact, many vehicles will have readings
over 12 volts and this reading DOES NOT indicate a defect.


Let me know how you make out here.



Edited by railman on June 11 2006 at 11:46 PM



"It is much wiser and cost efficient to ask a question than to stumble blindly through your auto repairs".Please Click Accept if my answer was helpful.
Reply
June 12 2006 at 12:37 AM (55 minutes and 31 seconds later)
         
Reply to Michael's Post: IM GOING TO TRY AND PULL THE FUSES LIKE YOU SAID. ONE THING I DIDNT STATE IS THAT PRIOR TO THE DRASTIC BATTERIE DRAIN, I WOULD TRY AND START THE TRUCK AND NOTHING WOULD HAPPEN,I WOULD JUST HEAR A CLICK, AND THEN I WOULD TURN IT OFF AND ON 2-3 TIMES AND IT WOULD START. I JUST BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE SO IM NOT SURE HOW OLD THE BATTERIE IS. WHEN I CHARGE IT, IT HOLDS A CHARGE UNTILL I CONNECT IT TO THE TRUCK, THEN THE DRAW STARTS.
I HAVE A MULTIMETER, BUT IM NOT SURE HOW TO USE IT. ITS A SEARS DIGITAL MODEL # 82418.

I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT INFO, IF YOU CAN EXPLAIN TO ME HOW TO USE THE MULTIMETER FOR THIS SITUATION I WILL DEFINATLY BE HITING THE "ACCEPT" BUTTON, AS IT IS WELL DESIRVED...THANKS AGAIN
Reply
June 12 2006 at 12:53 AM (15 minutes and 31 seconds later)
         
Reply to Michael's Post: JUST TO LET YA KNOW, IM A COMPLETE NEWBIE WHEN IT COMES TO ELECTRICAL..IM GOING TO BED NOW, BUT FIRST THING IN THE MORNING ILL BE BACK...
Answer
June 12 2006 at 3:41 PM (14 hours and 48 minutes and 13 seconds later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark
A multi-meter is not such a good choice for this work.Most only have 10 amp capability.The draw occuring on your truck may be more than that ,which will blow the meter fuse.The correct tool to check for parasitic drain is an ammeter.All you have to do is to hook it in series with the battery neg cable as described in my first post.You just disconnect the battery cable then hook the meter lead to the cable and the other meter lead to the battery.You will get an amperage reading there which you will write down.Then pull fuses one at a time until you see a major drop in amperage draw.Once you find the circuit pulling all the amperage you must dtermine what it feeds and you'll have found the culprit.Any shop can isolate this in under an hour of diagnostic time.it may be worth it to have it isolated for you and then make the repair yourself with their diagnosis.Please click accept if this answers your question.Good Luck foresthillImages available only to Customers.




"It is much wiser and cost efficient to ask a question than to stumble blindly through your auto repairs".Please Click Accept if my answer was helpful.
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