Type your question here I have a 1990 for mer sable ...

What is the fuel pressure reading? Should be 35 to 45PSI engine off VIP connecter to ground or jump the relay. Make sure the return fuel line isn't resticed any place. this would cause high fuel pressure. Also you need to check for pressure bleed down. if it's bleeding down check the injectors and see if they are leaking. Also check the pressure regulator. Sometimes the diapham breaks and fuel goes on the vaccum side. Hope this helps. if your satisfied with my answer please accept it. Thanks 32dmadden

Fuel pressure is in spec both engine not running and with engine running. ERG has been pulled and inspected for proper operation. When engine is running fuel pressure is still in spec. Back probing to ECM MAP freq appears in spec as well as TPS and the Coolant and air charge tem sender. When running vac gage is reading a little over 15 inch at 5300 altitude. This car is a real head banger. I am going to dry the plugs and run this car again and see if all the reading are again in spec. What did they say the test for insanity is?

I will chech the pressure regulator for fuel leakage and the bleed down. Does not seem realy likely since all the plugs are equally soaked. Also this car runs for awhile and then gets worse. This is one thing I have not thought of maybe because it has been working.

Is the check engine light on? Have you scanned for codes? Do you have a scope? If you do I'll give you another test for MAP. Check regulator and bleed down and let me know. Have you checked for vaccum leaks?

I am willing to pay for the advice. I really want to get this thing out of my life. The thing is eating me alive. If it was the usual customer’s car I think I could charge at least $1500 for the time put into this thing. But of course this is a 20 year good friend's car who's having some hard times. A just figure doesn’t? I am defiantly willing to pay a reasonable amount in addition to what I have posted if this thing can be solved.

The car is at the owner’s home so I had to go over to his house to the checks. Of course he's not home and the keys and not in the usual place. Why the keys would be somewhere else when the car is not going any where I don't know. The regulator looks newish. I powered up the fuel pump and put vac to the regulator. I actually sucked on it with my mouth. No gas and the thing is holding a vac.    I had tested the pressure holding earlier. Pressure stayed put. There seemed to be some air in the line when I disconnected the fuel pressure tester but it was quite warm 90+ F so I am thinking that it may simply be volatiles in the fuel causing the appearance of air in the line?

I have scanned for codes. There is no check engine light on. Both KOEO and KOER show no codes?

I don't have a scope but I have a frequency tester and access to All-Data. I got all the schematics and plug listings. It would be nice to have a brake-out-box for this but I have the computer out and plugged in the engine compartment so I can back probe the ECU connection. I can do all the brake-out-box tests it only takes more time. This is how I checked for shorts to voltage and or ground. Like I said this thing has been a real head banger.

Does not appear to be any vacuum leaks. The car runs smooth at idle when I can get it started. No sucking sound either. I have put on a new O2 sender; the old one had frayed wires, and have not run the car with it. I was going to do that when I went to check the regulator but no key.

If you have any other suggestions for what I should do when I get the key I would appreciate it. I will make sure to pay you as soon as this thing gets going.

Stan

You say you have 15" of vaccum at manifold vaccum at idle? Snap throttle wide open. Does vac gauge go to 0" then start comming back up or does it stay at 0" If it stays at zero check for a restricted exhaust. When checking MAP sensor freq. did you go to different RPMs when you were checking. What is the ignition timming doing. Is it at ten degrees spout unplugged? With spout plugged in timming should advance. At 2500RPM you should have 35 to 40 degrees of advance timming.

I still don't have keys to the car will you be available on Monday? Timing was dead on 10 degree with sprout disconnected. I did not check timing at 2500 rpm but I did check that timing was being controlled. The timing would advance with higher RPM. The dam thing acts like a slipped timing chain or blocked exhaust. Compression is 150+ and the timing was not adjusted. Popping off the distributor cap, watching the rotor, timing chain slop was less than 4 degrees back to back. It seems like the timing chain was replaced not to long ago. Exhaust blockage seemed to be a possibility. But the starting problem persisted with the O2 sencer out. Also the front cats had been removed and the secondary cat did not appear damaged. It's late, it's time for a beer, so let's hit it sometime Monday
Stan

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