1997 Blazer. When key is turned I get no dash lights, ...

Relist: I still need help.

You can verify it with a test light but it sounds like a bad ignition switch.

1995-99 Vehicles

See Figure 1

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Fig. 1: Exploded view of the ignition and key alarm switch

1. Remove the column shroud halves.

2. Remove the column-to-dash attaching bolts and slowly lower the steering column, making sure that it is supported.

3. Remove the multifunction switch if necessary.

4. Remove the key alarm switch, if equipped by gently prying the alarm switch retaining clip with a small screwdriver. Rotate the alarm switch ¹/₄ in. (6mm) turn and remove.

WARNING Extreme care is necessary to prevent damage to the collapsible column.

5. Make sure that the switch is in the LOCK position. If the lock cylinder is out, pull the switch rod up to the stop, then go down one detent.

6. Remove the two screws and the switch.

To install:

7. Before installation, make sure the switch is in the LOCK position.

8. Install the switch using the original screws. Tighten the screws to 12 inch. lbs. (1.4 Nm).

9. Install the key alarm switch, if equipped . Make sure the retaining clip is parallel to the lock cylinder. Rotate the alarm switch ¹/₄ in. (6mm) turn until locked in place.

10. Install the multifunction switch if removed.

CAUTION Use of screws that are too long could prevent the column from collapsing on impact.

Replace the column. Tighten the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm); the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

11. Install the column shroud halves.

Edited by Hammer Time on May 2 2006 at 9:44pm

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How does the ignition switch account for the fact that something is also constantly drawing on my battery? My battery has been going dead about every 4 days. I have triple checked to see if something is left on or open somewhere. I fear that I may have a direct short somewhere, but I don't know where to check. I have also checked all the fuses that I can find.

I don't understand why you neglected to include that fact in your question. If you ask half a question, you get half an answer.

If you want to find your battery problem, here;s how it's done

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.

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Great advice. And this should get me on track to fix both problems. Do you think that these are separate problems or the same problem. Also, sorry about the half of question think, It was later suggested that I include the battery information.

It would surprise me if they were the same problem but it is possible. Your losing voltage in one problem and it's not shutting off in the other.

Getting to the bottom of one or the other will tell you.

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