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Can I replace the front hub bearings on a 91 S10 ...

Sent to Car Experts April 1 2006 at 2:08 PM
   

Can I replace the front hub bearings on a 91 S10 4wd pickup, or do I have to buy the whole hub assembly? If I can, where do I find out how?

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Status:  Closed   Value: $10
Answer
April 1 2006 at 2:32 PM (23 minutes and 42 seconds later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark

That uses a hub assembly and you should be very thankful of that. You have to take the knuckle to a machine shop for pressing if it wasn't.

Here's the procedure for changing the knuckle. Just use the part about the hub removal and installation.

4wd Vehicles

See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9

The following procedure requires the use a universal steering linkage puller J-24319-01, an axle shaft boot seal protector J-28712, a ball joint separator tool J-34026 and a steering knuckle seal installation tool J-28574 or their equivalents.

VEHICLES THROUGH 1992

  1. At the wheel hub, remove the cotter pin and the retainer. Loosen the castle nut.

  2. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.

  3. Properly unload the torsion bar. For details, please refer to the torsion bar procedure located earlier in this section.

  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

  5. Install an axle shaft boot seal protector to the tri-pot axle joint.

  6. Remove the brake caliper and support aside using wire or a coat hanger. Make sure the brake line is not stretched or damaged.

  7. Remove the brake disc from the wheel hub.

  8. Remove the castle nut.

  9. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie-rod end, then use the steering linkage puller to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle.

  10. Remove the hub/bearing assembly-to-steering knuckle retaining bolts from the rear of the knuckle, then remove the hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.

When removing the steering knuckle and wheel hub, be careful not to damage the splined surface of the half shaft.

  1. Remove the splash shield.

  2. Remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joints, then back off the castle nut(s).

  3. Use the ball joint separator tool J-34026 or equivalent to loosen the ball joints in the steering knuckle.

  4. Remove the ball joint nuts, then separate the ball joints from the knuckle and remove the knuckle from the vehicle.

  5. Remove the spacer and the seal from the steering knuckle.

  6. Clean and inspect the parts for nicks, scores and/or damage, then replace them as necessary.

To install:

  1. Install a new seal into the steering knuckle, using a knuckle seal installation tool such as J-28574 or equivalent.

Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 2: Installing a new seal on the 4wd steering knuckle


  1. Install the spacer, then position the knuckle and insert the upper and lower ball joints.

  2. Install the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts, then tighten to specification and install new cotter pins. For details, please refer to the ball joint procedures located earlier in this section.

  3. Position the splash shield to the steering knuckle, then install the wheel hub/bearing assembly while aligning the threaded holes. Tighten the hub/bearing assembly retaining bolts to 86 ft. lbs. (116 Nm).

  4. Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle, then secure using the retaining nut and cotter pin.

  5. Install the thrust washer and the castle nut to the drive axle and tighten to 180 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). Install the retainer and a new cotter pin (DO NOT back off the torque specification).

  6. Install the brake disc.

  7. Reposition and secure the brake caliper.

  8. Remove the axle boot protector and the torsion bar unloader tool.

  9. Install the tire and wheel assembly.

  10. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the truck.

Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 3: Remove the wheel in order to access the steering knuckle components


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the drive axle end nut retainer


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 5: Remove the retainer for access to the end nut


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 6: The various ball studs must be removed from the steering knuckle as well


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 7: Remove the cotter pin (in this case from the tie rod end)


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 8: Loosen and remove the retaining nut so the tie rod may be separated


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 9: Tighten the drive axle nut and torque to specification



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Hammer Time -- L1 Master Technician -- 98% Positive Feedback on 2720 Car Accepts
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Reply
April 1 2006 at 2:58 PM (26 minutes and 34 seconds later)
         
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Thanks for your help. I learned front ends and brakes as a kid at Firestone, and do most of that work myself, including replacing the bearings and races in 2wd vehicles. On the 4wd hub, can I replace or repack both inner and outer bearings/races myself by popping off the seals, or do I have to go for the hub assembly? It kills me not to be able to repack the bearings or even replace them when needed, without paying big bucks for remanufactured hubs.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
April 1 2006 at 3:02 PM (3 minutes and 31 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark

No, that's a sealed unit. No packing at all.

Times have changed. There are only a few packable bearings not and they are mostly RWD vehicles.

That's not a bad thing. It's a good thing.



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Reply
April 1 2006 at 3:09 PM (6 minutes and 59 seconds later)
         
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Oh Crud! Wrong year. This is a 95 S10..not 91. Sorry...I have a 91 4WD Blazer, and the hub is probly the same design.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Reply
April 1 2006 at 3:15 PM (6 minutes and 24 seconds later)
         
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Great. Thanks for your help sir. Packin bearings by hand is a knuckle buster anyway.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Info Request
April 1 2006 at 3:26 PM (10 minutes and 36 seconds later)
         
Yeah, it's the same thing

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