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I have a 78 volkswagon rabbit that has a problem that ...

Sent to Car Experts March 19 2006 at 9:28 AM
   

I have a 78 volkswagon rabbit that has a problem that is most likely fuel related. What is the most common part of an older fuel injected system to fail first?

Optional Information:
Pre-1981 Volkswagen rabbit 4cy gas

Already Tried:
new plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, new coil, fuel pump relay, key switch and tumbler as the problem seems to be fuel and/or electrical, but has since been confirmed that it is not electrical

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Status:  Closed   Value: $15
Info Request
March 19 2006 at 9:54 AM (26 minutes and 33 seconds later)
         
REPLIED to Info RequestCheck Mark
What is the nature of the problem?

Master ASE Certified.L1 Advanced Engine Performance Certified.Pa Emission Repair Technician.Just Answer Car Category Mentor.
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Davo -- Master technician -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1964 Car Accepts
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March 19 2006 at 10:01 AM (7 minutes and 11 seconds later)
         
Reply to Davo/diablo666's Post: With absolutely no consistency at all the car dies and will almost always restart either the first attempt or few attempts. There is an occassional backfire, sometimes before the car dies it sputters a lot and seems to clear up with no load on the engine, only sometimes(putting the car into neutral while driving and revving the engine a little) Again it may die at an idle, slow or fast speeds, accelerating or braking and is not sensitive to the level of fuel in the tank. I have wired a switch to the battery side of the coil and can have constant voltage at the coil and this problem still persists (this is how I confirmed that it is most likely not electrical after a few other minor electrical repairs) I have also removed the fuel tank, cleaned the suction filter, tank and fuel lines. There is also a fuel accumulator(?) in line after the fuel pump next to the tank. Could that cause these symptoms. Thanks.

Edited by Customer (name blocked for privacy) on March 19 2006 at 10:16 AM
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 19 2006 at 10:41 AM (40 minutes and 2 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
One thing that was very common on those older VWs is the fuel meter plate would get dirty and affecr the idle and fuel delivery.To check it and clean it remove the air intake boot.You will see a round disc held in by a 10mm head bolt.Remove the bolt and the plate.Clean with carb cleaner or intake cleaner.Clean the inside of the housing really good also.Put it back together and make sure the plate moves without any kind of binding.If it binds loosen the bolt and try again until it moves freely.Then move on to the throttle plate and clean it really well also.Reassemble the boot and give it a try.If it's still not okay you may need to adjust the fuel meter.There is a small hole a little larger than 1/8 inch.You will need a long allen wrench to stick in the hole to turn the screw inside.I think it's 5mm but it may be 6mm.Turn it in small increments until the engine idles smooth then stop.I don't remember which way so try both.Remove the allen wrench after making a 1/4 to 1/2 turn so you have no pressure on the screw and then continue as needed.I hope this helps you it worked for me many times.

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1 Other Expert Agrees with this!
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Davo -- Master technician -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1964 Car Accepts
ASE Master Technician/Advanced Automotive Diagnostic Technician
Reply
March 19 2006 at 10:47 AM (5 minutes and 55 seconds later)
         
Reply to Davo/diablo666's Post: Interesting information, obviously experience on this one is critical. I will give that a try and get back.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Reply
March 24 2006 at 5:42 PM (5 days and 6 hours later)
         
Relist: I want a different opinion.
It was a couple days before I could get back to my car to do the recommended repairs. I followed the directions and did notice an improvement in the car's performance. I drove it to work today (30 miles each way), it ran good on the way to work (some days it does/did anyway). On the way home it acted up again. I was driving up a small hill on a bumpy dirt road and the car cut out just like it always does. After it died it started a couple minutes later and I was able to drive it home. Before it started and ran it would start and fire up for about a count of 2 seconds and die again. It actually died one more time before I made it home. So whether the recommended repair was accurate or not I do not know, but I am an equipment mechanic and understand the importance of doing things correctly, as I did the recommended cleaning carefully and precisely put it back together. Any other ideas??
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 25 2006 at 2:22 AM (8 hours and 40 minutes and 21 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
I would suggest changing the fuel filter back by the pump then.The part you refer to as an accumulator looking thing is the fuel filter.A bottle of dry gas in the tank probably wouldn't hurt either.

Edited by diablo666 on March 25 2006 at 2:24 AM

Master ASE Certified.L1 Advanced Engine Performance Certified.Pa Emission Repair Technician.Just Answer Car Category Mentor.
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Davo -- Master technician -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1964 Car Accepts
ASE Master Technician/Advanced Automotive Diagnostic Technician
Reply
March 25 2006 at 3:34 AM (1 hour and 11 minutes and 17 seconds later)
         
Reply to Davo/diablo666's Post: So there must be two filters then. There is a filter under the hood next to the fuel meter bolted to the top of the driver's side fender well. I found the information about the "accumulator" in a Chilton and confirmed it on a parts site. Or at least the "accumulator" shown on the site looked just like the filter next to the pump. The "in" and "out" are on the same end. The filter under the hood has the "in" and "out" on opposite sides. Either way Davo, I appreciate your time and will give you my deposit. If we can cure the problem I will give you more. Thanks.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 25 2006 at 3:48 AM (13 minutes and 52 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
I'm sorry you may be correct that the filter is under the hood.I'm working from memory and 1978 is a good ways back.

Master ASE Certified.L1 Advanced Engine Performance Certified.Pa Emission Repair Technician.Just Answer Car Category Mentor.
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Davo -- Master technician -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1964 Car Accepts
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March 25 2006 at 4:15 AM (27 minutes and 1 second later)
         
Reply to Davo/diablo666's Post: No problem. Is it very likely that the "accumulator" is contributing to this problem? I am considering doing your original recommendation again, but this time completely disassembling the meter.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 25 2006 at 5:01 AM (46 minutes and 26 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
Unless you missed some of the gunk that builds up on it,it won't probably help much.Did you try adjusting that allen head screw or is it idleing okay?Te accumulator could have water in it contributing to the problem 9if that's the case you could probably just drain it into a jar to see if water is in it.You would have to remove it to see.

Master ASE Certified.L1 Advanced Engine Performance Certified.Pa Emission Repair Technician.Just Answer Car Category Mentor.
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Davo -- Master technician -- 99% Positive Feedback on 1964 Car Accepts
ASE Master Technician/Advanced Automotive Diagnostic Technician
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March 25 2006 at 7:31 PM (14 hours and 29 minutes and 30 seconds later)
         
Reply to Davo/diablo666's Post: I'll look into this and get back to you. Thanks again. Just to keep this quesion open I'll wait until I get somewhere before I close and turn my deposit (and more maybe) over.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
March 26 2006 at 2:11 AM (6 hours and 40 minutes and 28 seconds later)
         
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