Apologies if my answer isn't what you are looking for; your one original question was "how can I tell if it is the alternator?" and I gave you 3 methods of testing to tell if it was the alternator, 2 of which required NO test equipment at all; i thought it was a quite simple, elegant answer to the exact question you posted.

RE: jump starting: the most critical step on vehicles with electronic components is to verify that the ignition switch is "off" in both vehicles before connecting anything. If the ignition switch is in the ON position, transient voltage spikes can and do damage electronic components. I'm not talking alternator diodes here; most modern vehicles have multiple (as many as 40 on some models) electronic control modules in everything from engine control systems to interior illumination to doors. Diagnosis of many of these requires a manufacturer specific scan tool, which you in all probability do not have available to you (they are far more expensive than scopes). I am not at all trying to deride you abilities; I chose your question to answer from the list on my screen specifically because you sounded like an intelligent person who likely knows something about cars and how they operate; that is the kind of customer that is pleasant to deal with and usually pays for your time. Unfortunately, to perform more in depth electronic testing to identify the exact damage in your vehicle will likely require specialized equipment which you do not have available (such as a scan tool and logic probe); that is the unfortunate reality of the situation. An alternator (your original question) is easy to eliminate as a cause for the symptoms you are experiencing, and I outlined how to do that. Other components simply cannot be diagnosied without test equipment and the related factory dioagnostic procedure for the system involved. For example, are you aware that on most new vehicle models (not your particular model year) the alternator field is controlled by the powertrain control module; the PCM monitors battery temperature through a battery temp sensor, and adjustes charging voltage by modulating the alternator field circuit in response? yep; no more voltage regulators, now a regulator failure means a new powertrain controller which must be programmed with a factory scan tool before it will be operational. There are more parts in the charging system to fail; components many people don't even know exist unless they attend regular technical training classes to keep abreast of the new technology. Again; I am not deriding your abilities at all; but diagnosis of electrical problems caused by an incorrect jump starting procedure isn't always as quick and easy as it was on 1970's models.

As far as your question, I answered the one you posted, but you seem dissatisfied; I don't have any magic bullet to tell you what is damaged in your vehicle besides the "obvious"; identifying such electronic damage does unfortunately require electrical testing which is not possible unless you are present with the vehicle.

You mention playing "guess where the bug is" on electrical systems; such an approach is not used by professionals. There is NO guesswork in electrical diagnosis; if you follow a logical test sequence, there is never any reason to install parts on a guess. Such guesswork can be very expensive if wrong (guess who pays for a $1500 import electronic control module if it doesn't fix the car and is non-returnable? Right- the tech who installed it !). Such liability for your diagnosis quickly breeds the replace-parts-and-see-if-it-helps approach right out of you.

Good luck, if I can be of assistance, don't hesitate to ask...