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Hard to shift into gear...why?
Sent to Car Experts September 08 10:53 AM

I have a 1993 saturn sl, standard drive, it shifts extrememly hard! It didn't start doing it til lately, when the engine is off it goes into gear fine, but when i start it , it won't shift unless I pump the clutch what seems like a few hundred times, then it gets easier to drive, there are no leaks in the clutch fluid that can be seen, what do you think is wrong with it, that i have to pump the clutch in order for it to be put into gear?

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Status:  Closed   Value: $5
Answer
September 8 11:05 AM (11 minutes and 39 seconds later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark

There is a problem withing the hydraulic clutch components. If the resevoir of the clutch master is still full, then that would indicate a bad clutch master cylinder. The master and the slave assembly are sold as one unit so you will be replacing both. Here are the instructions.

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.

  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.

  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.

  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.

  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.

  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.

  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.

  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.

  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.

  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.

  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:

  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1/8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.

  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1/4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.

  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.

  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).

  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.

  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.

  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.

  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.

  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.

  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.

Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork


Images available only to Customers.
Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel



HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.

Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

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Hammer Time -- L1 Master Technician98% Positive Feedback on 2716 Car Accepts
ASE Mastertech with Adv level Engine performance cert.
Reply
September 8 11:13 AM (8 minutes and 47 seconds later)
         
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: the clutch fluid is full, and there appears to be no leakage, this is a hydraulic clutch. Is this an expensive job? I have someone that will do the work, but are the replacement parts expensive? Is this a difficult job for someone who has not done standard cars to understand? How long will it be ok for to drive if i wait to have this done and what are the repercussions?
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
September 8 11:26 AM (13 minutes and 5 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark

It's probablly pretty difficult to drive now but it's only going to get worse. Grinding the gears is not good for the transmission.

As far as the cost, the parts vary a lot and you could just call the dealer to get the parts price because they are the only ones that carry it. The labor is probably about 2 hours so at $70 per hour (average), that's $140 in labor. The actual replacement is not real difficult and because this one comes all assembled, there should be no bleeding required and that is the hardest part. You do have to reach some tough places to access.



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Hammer Time -- L1 Master Technician98% Positive Feedback on 2716 Car Accepts
ASE Mastertech with Adv level Engine performance cert.
Reply
September 8 11:54 AM (27 minutes and 27 seconds later)
         
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: the gears do not grind, but i have someone very mechanically inclined that can do the job, i priced it at around 200 bucks at a local store that has the whole pre-bled kit in stock, i just wondered how difficult it would be and how long it might take, did i say the gears are grinding? they aren't could it be something else then?
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Info Request
September 8 12:53 PM (58 minutes and 52 seconds later)
         

The forward gears aren't grinding because the transmission has synchronizers built in to prevent that but I bet it grinds going into reverse.

I've already given you and estimate on labor time.



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Hammer Time -- L1 Master Technician98% Positive Feedback on 2716 Car Accepts
ASE Mastertech with Adv level Engine performance cert.
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