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My 1994 Corolla (1.8l) ran fine until, 30 min. into driving ...
Sent to Car Experts July 15 02:34 PM

My 1994 Corolla (1.8l) ran fine (32 mpg, easily passed smog, 1/3 qt oil/1000 mi) until, 30 min. into driving up to LakeTahoe, it lost power (seemed to start running on 2-3 cylinders). Check engine light never came on. Next AM, it started fine but shortly began stumbling again. Spark seems strong, but I changed ign coil anyway - no diff. Other recent changes include plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter, fuel filter, timing belt, O2 sensors. Throttle body is clean.   TPS ohms are low at WOT, -but same as 6 mo.s ago. Vac lines seem OK and vac is 22" Hg. Timing is fine but, strangely, when I short E1 & TE1, the rpms jump and then fall drastically after 10sec (it barely idles), tho timing stays at 10 deg.
Any ideas while I scrounge up a fuel pressure gauge would be appreciated -Jeff

 

Optional Information:
1994 Toyota Corolla 1.8

Already Tried:
see Q.

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
July 15 2:47 PM (13 minutes and 11 seconds later)
         
REPLIEDCheck Mark
Hi

Drive the car until the problem occurs and then switch off the engine, disconnect the MAF sensor, and then continue to drive the car.

If the problem disappears or improves then this points to a dodgy MAF.

Let me know how you get on.

Cheers!!

Geordie


Please ensure that you are totally happy with any advice before clicking ACCEPT. Advice is decided upon from what you tell me, and you must be totally sure before accepting
Reply
July 15 6:00 PM (3 hours and 12 minutes and 36 seconds later)
         
Reply to Geordie's Post: Geordie,
I'm new at this, and I apparently corresponded with you outside the normal process.

Anyway, I'm gratefull for the response and will "accept" to repay you for your time regardless, but it seems I need a "formal" response back from you to get that option.

Jeff

Edited by Customer (name blocked for privacy) on July 15 2006 at 6:03 PM
Answer
July 16 6:42 AM (12 hours and 42 minutes and 18 seconds later)
         
ACCEPTEDCheck Mark
Good morning!

I emailed you back when I got your email, does that mean I've been naughty an all!!

Remove the MAP vaccuum pipe from the MAP and blow it through to clear any blockages, but make sure you do actually remove it from the MAP else when you blow it through you'll damage it.

If you actually removed the pipe rather than the electrical connector to disable the MAP, then you should have removed it from the MAP sensor and then plugged it to stop air being taken into the induction system through the MAP pipe.

Check the ignition dwell. You can do this at the coil negative terminal with a dwell meter. If, as you say, there is a good strong spark then it could be dwelling too long.

Remove the fuel filler cap the next time the problem occurs and then see if it cures it. If so then you simply have a blocked tank vent.

I know you say that the TPS has low resistance at WOT, but have you checked the voltages through the whole throttle range? Its easier to check voltages than resistances coz you can earth one lead of your meter to the battery and just leave it there which gives you an extra hand to wangle wires around and stuff. If I am not mistaken, the output wire on the TPS should have a range of 0.5 volts to 4.5 volts or thereabouts, but once the problem is apparent it may well jump around, indicating a fault with the sensor.

When the problem occurs, check the coolant temp sensor resistance. I think at normal operating temp the resistance should be somewhere between 200 and 250 ohms on average, but it may well be completely different whilst the problem is apparent.

You'll manage eventually. Just keep soldiering.

Best wishes and good luck

Geordie


Please ensure that you are totally happy with any advice before clicking ACCEPT. Advice is decided upon from what you tell me, and you must be totally sure before accepting
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