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Mechanical problems with my Ford Taurus


Sent to Car Experts July 31, 2005 8:27 p.m.
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus, with 67K miles that is having two separate mechanical problems that I have been unable to resolve. I am feeling very, very frustrated at this point. This problem involves a braking vibration while going downhill primarily at speeds of 50 mph or greater. Over the last year, I have purchased new tires, had a wheel alignment, tires balanced, a complete brake job, including ceramic brake pads, master cylinders, and calipers, and replaced or turned the rotors four times. I currently have new rotors with less than 1000 miles and the problem is recurring. When I take it back in, the diagnosis once again is warped rotors.    I don’t do any abnormal driving, some freeway, and some local. What would be causing the rotors to warp repeatedly?

The second problem I am having what was described by a mechanic to be a “stumbling” problem. When you travel uphill at speeds greater than 50 mph and attempt to accelerate to pass another vehicle the car seems to “stumble” as if it is not getting enough fuel, or acts like it is going to “cut out” or die. I took it to an aftermarket shop for my 60K mile service and less than 4000 miles later it started stumbling. I returned to the original shop, they changed the fuel filter and put in a fuel additive, checked all the plugs and wires, ran a diagnostic which showed Code # p340, Camshaft Position Sensor, and recommended I take it to the dealer. When I took it to the dealer they told me the diagnostic code didn’t come up on their scope. Subsequently, the dealer has recommended I do several things, including plugs regapped, a fuel injection kit put in, the fuel injection system flushed, a throttle body service performed, and T/P cleaner put in and was assured this would solve the problem, unfortunately it didn’t. They then suggested I replace all the wires and plugs with Motorcraft Parts stating my car would run better with those parts. So I did that. I have done everything the dealer has recommended and $1200 later I still have the same problem. The dealer has told me that unless their machine comes up with a diagnostic it is almost impossible to find out what is causing it. It has been suggested that it may be a fuel pump but we have to wait until it goes out for my warranty to cover it. Is that true, and what would you suggest I do at this point? I don’t feel safe driving it the way it is, and if the Ford Technicians at the dealer can’t figure it out, what else can I do? I am extremely frustrated!! I feel I am getting the run-around and being “nickel and dimed” to death, can you please help me?   

Lori from Milwaukie   
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Status: Closed   Value: $20   
Info Request
July 31, 2005 9:02 p.m. (34 minutes and 23 seconds later) 		REPLIED to Info Request Check Mark

What engine do you have? are you sure about that trouble code # Not a number common to Ford in my list.

I know it is a 3 liter I need the 8th digit of the vin number.

It is either a 2,an S or a U



Edited by enginboy on July 31 2005 at 9:04pm
PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Reply to Marc
Sent July 31, 2005 9:13 p.m. (11 minutes and 50 seconds later)
Thank you for answering so quickly. Unfortunately, that is the code number the mechanic wrote down, so that is all I have. The engine size is 3 Liter V6, eighth number in my VIN is "U".

Thank you,

Lori
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
July 31, 2005 9:25 p.m. (11 minutes and 46 seconds later) 		REPLIED Check Mark

That code could be set by other things in the engine like theBad alternator. Voltage spike(s) from a bad spark plug or plug wire. Intermittent Camshaft Position Sensor. Wiring problem.

Monitor Camshaft Position Sensor signal with labscope. There should be 1 sine wave for every 2 engine revolutions. The flat line between should be relatively clean and free from electrical noise. Monitor for AC noise riding on the line between Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) waveforms. If seeing noise, disconnect alternator and recheck, and if signal then looks clean, replace alternator. If signal looks clean and normal even with alternator connected, go after the driveability symptom, not the code. Since the 340 code has not come back it could have been caused by a bad spark plug or wire .



Edited by enginboy on July 31 2005 at 9:31pm
PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Answer
July 31, 2005 9:36 p.m. (10 minutes and 36 seconds later)
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PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Reply to Marc
Sent July 31, 2005 9:37 p.m. (1 minute and 36 seconds later)
I replaced all the wires and the plugs with Motorcraft parts as recommended and it is still doing the same thing. So lets say, that doing that fixed the code problem, what should I now do to solve the problem of the stumbling?

Lori
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Reply
Sent July 31, 2005 9:39 p.m. (1 minute and 36 seconds later)
So you don't think this is a fuel pump problem?
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Reply
Sent July 31, 2005 9:40 p.m. (56 seconds later)
the brake problem does go away for a VERY short time, it has been less than 1000 miles and it is returning, I can already feel vibrating and the rotors are new.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)
Answer
July 31, 2005 9:42 p.m. (1 minute and 36 seconds later)
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PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Info Request
July 31, 2005 9:47 p.m. (5 minutes and 25 seconds later)
Let me check something about your brakes be back soon.
PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Answer
July 31, 2005 10:17 p.m. (29 minutes and 34 seconds later) 		ACCEPTED Check Mark

The only things I can find about your brakes are that ford recommends cleaning the hubs and the wheel mating surfaces before assembly to prevent "on-vehicle lateral run-out.

And they also don't recommend the use of an impact gun for installing the wheels.Unevenly torqued lug nuts also causes lateral run-out and eventually disc thickness vibration and brake roughness

This info was take from the Tech service bulletin # 99-19-4
PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Answer
July 31, 2005 10:23 p.m. (6 minutes and 27 seconds later) 		REPLIED Check Mark
If I were checking checking your brakes I would carefully inspect the brake hoses for damage and signs of collapse, ans also see how easily the calipers can be compressed because these things can cause extra drag on the brakes witch in turn causes heat. Heat is the major cause of rotor warping.
PictureMarc  -- Technician,Auto -- 98% Positive Feedback on 1028 Car Accepts
32 years exp. automotive repair NYS emisisions repair cert.
Reply to Marc
Sent July 31, 2005 10:35 p.m. (12 minutes and 7 seconds later)
I am not sure if they cleaned the surfaces or not, nor am I sure if they used an impact tool to install the wheels. I do know that they replaced the calipers less than a 1000 miles ago. What I am concerned with is that there is not a driveability issue with my axle or wheels that I need to be worried about? I will definately be asking those questions when I take it back in for yet another repair. All I know is I am really frustrated when I go to the dealer and he stands there and tells me that their qualified technicians know what they are doing, yet can't figure this out and continue to charge me a diagnostic fee everytime I come in.
Customer (name blocked for privacy)

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